Author: Webmaster

Creating a Butterfly Habitat

The most important things to remember when planning & planting a garden to attract and sustain butterflies:

  • Include nectar flowers for butterflies and larval food for caterpillars
  • Include pebbles or stones for butterflies to stand upon and bask in the sun
  • Dig mud puddles or include shallow dishes filled with mud for puddling
  • NEVER USE PESTICIDES
  • Place a bench in the garden for you to enjoy the butterflies

All butterflies go through four distinct life stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. Everyone is familiar the adult stage, when the insect is the most attractive, but this phase only last two to three weeks. During that brief period, they must find a suitable mate, reproduce, seek out food and shelter, and avoid being eaten – a tall order for most creatures. To meet these high energy demands, adults rely on high energy nectar for fuel.

Good nectar plants include:

Anise Hyssop*Agastache foeniculum
Black-eyed Susan*Rudbeckia hirta & R. fulgida
Blanket Flower*Gaillardia spp.
Blazing Star*Liatris spp.
Blue Mist ShrubCaryopteris x clandonensis
Boneset*Eupatorium perfoliatum
Butterfly BushBuddleia davidii
Butterflyweed*Asclepias tuberosa
Button Bush*Cephalanthus occidentalis
Coreopsis*Coreopsis spp.
Culver’s Root*Veroniacastrum virginicum
Garden Phlox*Phlox paniculata
Garden SageSalvia spp.
Goldenrod*Solidago spp
Iron Weed*Vernonia novaboracensis
Joe-pye Weed*Eupatorium maculatum
Milkweed*Asclepias spp.
Mountain Mint*Pycnanthemum muticum
New England Aster*Aster novae-angliae
Purple Coneflower*Echinacea purpurea
Sneezeweed*Helenium autumnale
Sunflower*Helianthus spp.
Sweet Pepperbush*Clethra alnifolia
Turtlehead*Chelone lyonii or C. glabra
Weeping Lantana Lantana montevidensis
White Meadowsweet*Spiraea alba
Wild Bergamont*Monarda spp.
*These plants are native to the United States

As rapid development continues, butterfly populations are on the decline because their food sources and habitats are being destroyed. Help butterflies survive by avoiding manicured grass lawns, pesticides and foreign species of plants in your yard and garden. If you have room, leave part of your garden become a meadow. Initially you will want to plant in plugs of native wildflowers and native grasses. Mowing is needed only once a year in late November. You may have to remove an occasional unwanted plant. By using native plants, you are providing food sources for the beautiful creatures

It is also important to include larval-host plants. Remember these plants are supposed to be eaten by the caterpillars, so if they show insect damage, don’t reach for the pesticides.

Below is a partial list of good food sources for caterpillars:

Eastern Red Cedar*Juniperus virginiana
FennelFoeniculum vulgare
Hackberry*Celtis occidentalis
Milkweed*Asclepias spp
ParsleyPetroselinum crispum
Pearly EverlastingAnaphalis margaritacea
Sassafras Tree*Sassafras albidum
Spicebush*Lindera benzoin
Willow*Salix spp.
Violets*Viola spp.
Agastache foeniculumAnise Hyssop
Amorpha brachycarpaLead Plant
Aquilegia canadensisWild Columbine
Asclepias incarnataSwamp Milkweed
Asclepias tuberosaButterfly Flower
Aster divaricatrusWhite Wood Aster
Aster nova-angliaeNew England Aster
Cephalanthus occidentalisButton Bush
Chelone glabraWhite Turtlehead
Chelone lyoniiPink Turtlehead
Clethra alnifoliaSweet Pepperbush
Coreopsis verticillataLance-leaf Tickseed
Echinacea purpureaPurple Coneflower
Eupatorium purpureumJoe Pye Weed
Eupatoriutm perfoliatumWhite Boneset
Gaillardia pulchellaBlanketflower
Geranium maculatumWild Cranesbill
Helinium autumnaleSneezeweed
Juniperus virginianaEastern Red Cedar
Kalmia latifoliaMountain Laurel
Liatris spicataBlazing Star
Lindera benzoinSpicebush
Lonicera sempervirensTrumpet Honeysuckle
Magnolia virginianaSweetbay Magnolia
Monarda didymaOswego Tea or Bee Balm
Opuntia humifusaPrickly Pear
Pinus virginianaJersey Pine
Phlox stoloniferaCreeping Phlox
Prunus virginianaChoke Cherry
Pycnanthemum muticumMountain Mint
Rhododendron periclymenoidesPinxter Azalea
Rhododendron viscosumSwamp Azalea
Rudbeckia fulgidaOrange Coneflower
Rudbeckia hirtaBlack-Eyed Susan
Sedum ternatumShale Barrens Sedum
Solidago spp.Goldenrod
Vernonia novaboriensisNew York Ironweed
Yucca filamentosaAdam’s Needle

The Virtual Gardener Announces a New Member Benefit

The Virtual Gardener is pleased to announce a new Member Benefit! Members can now peruse our circulating library's collection online.

Did you know that Benjamin Franklin was the first American to start a circulating library in 1731? Members of his "Library Company" paid a fee which was used to purchase books and maintain the library and each of these contributors had borrowing privileges. (learn about Franklin's idea at www.ushistory.org, search "The Library Company." ) This is much like our library – each of you pays membership fees, a part of which maintains the library and each of you has borrowing rights. So, exercise your rights and borrow a book!

Here's how — Go to www.arboretumfriends.org and select "Resources" from the bar across the top of the home page. Under "Resources" select "Library" and follow the link to the online card catalog. Here is the link to the On-Line Card Catalog.

We are going to be adding more sections to this list, but for now you can see the listing of books under the Garden Design and Juvenile sections.

Many of these titles are available for purchase at Amazon.com. So, to learn more about the book you are interested in, you may want to type the name of the book into Amazon.com's book section to see it online and perhaps read some it there.

To borrow a book, simply send the name of the book(s) you would like to borrow to lparness@morrisparks.net. Your book reservation must be sent to me by Wednesday at 9:00 am and you may borrow up to 3 books at a time.

Reserved books will be available for pick up at the Front Desk of the Haggerty Education Center on that coming Saturday or Sunday from 9:30 am – 4:00 pm.

You will be asked to complete a form when you pick up your book.

Books are due back two weeks after your borrow them. Overdue books are charged $1.00 per week. In the event that the book is "out" and therefore not available, you will be notified by email.

To return books:

Leave them with the receptionist at the Front Desk of the Haggerty Education Center on Saturday or Sunday from 9:30 am – 4:00 pm. You will be asked to sign a form.

There may be some kinks in this process that we have to work out along the way, but we hope it will encourage you to use the library and we thank you for your membership!

A Quick Course in Pruning Conifers

Pruning conifers or needled evergreens incorrectly can be disastrous to the appearance and health of your trees. To understand how evergreens should be pruned, you must know how and where they produce new growth. Needled evergreens fall into two basic groups which are determined by their branching pattern; whorl-branched and non-whorled or random branching.

Whorl-branched conifers branch only once a year when new growth occurs in the spring. This results in a whorled growth of branches at the growing tip. In this group, new growth comes from buds at the tips of the branches, buds along the new growth, and from buds at the base of the new growth. Evergreens that fall into this group should not be cut back beyond where there is green growth (or beyond the last whorl) because there are no latent or dormant buds in the bare old wood. If pruned back beyond this point, there will almost certainly be no regrowth on the branch and it will remain a bare stick.

Whorl-branched conifers include: Abies (Fir); Cedrus (Cedar); Cryptomeria; Larix (Larch); Picea (Spruce); Pinus (Pine)

Random branching conifers produce new growth from buds at the tips of the branches and also from buds that are randomly located along the stems. These evergreens have dormant buds and foliage further back on the stem than the whorled branched species. The result is that this group can be cut back harder and still break into new growth. Still, to be safe, you should not cut back beyond where there is green growth.

Non-whorled or random branching conifers include: Chamaecyparus (False cypress); Cupressus (Cypress); Cupressocyparis leylandii (Leyland Cypress); Tsuga (Hemlock); Juniperus (Juniper);Thuja (Arborvitae).

How to Prune Whorl-branched Conifers

These evergreens have a naturally beautiful shape and normally, they require little pruning. Care should be taken when a species or cultivar is chosen to select one that will not outgrow the space you plant it in. Growth can be controlled by pruning if you start when the plant is young. If you wait until the tree has outgrown its space, it will be too late to shorten the growth and have the plant look natural.

The new growing tips on whorl-branched evergreens are called candles. You can control the growth of your tree by pruning the candles. If you want to slow the growth a little but still want it to get bigger, remove about 1/2 to 1/3 of the candle when it has elongated to 2″-4″ usually in mid to late spring or early summer. If you want the tree to remain the same size, remove the entire candle when it gets to be about an inch long.

Other selective pruning should be done in early spring so that the cut ends will heal quicker. Dormant buds behind the cuts will begin to grow and will hide the cut ends.

If pruning is done too late, these buds will remain dormant and no new growth will occur to hide the cut ends. Never cut back into bare stems. Always cut back to a side branch or a dormant bud so you will get regrowth.

How to Prune Random Branching Conifers

These evergreens can tolerate more pruning than the whorl-branched group because they have more dormant buds along the stem. Pruning cuts can be made almost anywhere along the stem except into bare wood. Pruning to maintain shape is best done in early spring so the new growth covers the cut ends. Selective hand pruning rather than shearing creates a more natural shape. Prune to remove wayward branches in early spring. Cut back to a side branch. To prune to maintain size shear the new growth in summer once the tree or shrub has stopped growing. For prostrate or open growing plants, it is often better to selectively prune individual branches rather than shearing the whole plant.

Keep in mind that for both of these types of conifers, dead, diseased, or damaged branches should be removed as soon as they are noticed regardless of the time of the year. When removing diseased portions, be sure to disinfect shears with a 10% bleach solution between cuts.

To avoid winter damage, do not prune evergreens in late summer or early fall. The tender new growth that forms will not have time to harden off before cold weather sets in and will freeze and turn brown.

Virtual Gardener Spring 2011: Climate Change and Your Garden

Over the past year, the Virtual Gardener has found that nothing can bring a pleasant dinner conversation with relatives to a halting stop like the utterance of the phrase “climate change.”

I will not say another word on the subject but offer these websites for you to explore.

First, to www.pewclimate.org for an excellent glossary.

Understand something my brother-in-law does not – the difference between climate and weather at:
http://www.noaa.gov/features/02_monitoring/snowstorms.html.

Read what the EPA has to say at http://www.epa.gov/climatechange.

Even my brother-in-law could not find Cornell University to be a wacky, fringe group at: http://www.climateandfarming.org/pdfs/FactSheets/I.1Science.pdf.

National Geographic takes on “climategate” at http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2004/12/1206_041206_global_warming.html.

An interesting article that would really make my brother-in-law angry is at: http://www.rodale.com/climate-change-facts.

Botanic Garden Conservation International has some good materials at: http://www.bgci.org/climate/.

“For heaven’s sake,” I would like to have told my brother-in-law, “even the Chelsea Flower Show acknowledged climate change” at: http://historicroses.org/index.php?id=78.

Whilst you are picking new plants for your garden, it would be of value to consult: http://www.ahs.org/publications/heat_zone_map.htm.

You can use the AHS Plant Heat-Zone Map in the same way that you do the Hardiness Map.

Mother has something to say about that map at: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/2008-04-01/Hardiness-Zone-Changes.aspx.

You and my brother-in-law can see the change at: http://www.arborday.org/media/zones.cfm.

To learn more about climate and your garden, I recommend “The Climate Conscious Gardener.” which we have a copy of in our library. This step-by-step guide to offsetting climate change through gardens and landscaping explains what happens when the atmospheric balance of carbon and nitrogen goes awry, and how plants, soil, and synthetic gardening aids (such as fertilizer and pesticides) affect climate. Chapters include: A Gardener’s Guide to Climate Change, Reducing Your Garden’s Climate Footprint, A Guide to Landscape Materials and Product, Offsetting Carbon Emissions in Your Garden Landscaping for Home Energy EfÔ¨Åciency, The Climate Footprint of Homegrown Food, Turning Your Landscape into a Carbon Sink, Carbon Sequestration in Soil, Carbon Sequestration in Plants.

John Bartram

by Lesley Parness — lparness@morrisparks.net

This Virtual Gardener entry is about John Bartram. This year’s New Year’s Party will allow you to meet John Bartram in person, no small feat as he was born in 1699 and died in 1777. Please read the program description for information about this fabulous presentation!

In preparation for this program, and in order to understand the importance of his work to the world of horticulture, please start at www.bartramtrail.org for a concise biography of the man. Note the many references to Peter Collinson. At the New Year’s Party, you will see some of Mr. Collinson’s books and letters to Mr. Bartram from our Rare Book Collection. Although John Bartram lacked a formal education, he corresponded with many of the great scientific minds of his age: including Mr. Collinson; Phillip Miller, author of the “Gardener’s Dictionary” (also to be on display);
Sir Hans Sloane (founder of the British Museum); various Earls; Dukes; and Linnaeus himself, who called John Bartram the “best natural botanist of his time.”

Now on to www.pabook.libraries.psu.edu/palitmap/bios/Bartram_John.html for more insight into this fascinating figure. Next, www.bartramsgarden.org, the website of the non-profit organization that manages Bartram’s home and garden and www.ushistory.org/tour/bartrams-garden.htm. Finally, enjoy the detailed house information at http://uchs.net/HistoricDistricts/bartramhouse.html.

This year’s New Year’s Party includes a program that should not be missed, about a man who has been largely overlooked but who played a role without which the green history of the world would not be the same. I hope to see all of you at the New Year’s Party!

Sallets and the Father of British Gardening

Virtual Gardener – Summer 2010

Let us now praise the sallet (salad.) This menu item, healthy or haute, is ever present on 21 century tables. Not so a mere 400 years ago, when a dish of arugala was fit for a rabbit, not a king. How did sallets gain acceptance in the dining rooms of royales and common men alike? Through the work of John Evelyn (1620-1706) essayist, diarist, lobbyist, and horticulturalist, who praised their virtues.

Born into a wealthy family of gunpowder manufacturers, Evelyn created an explosion of his own with his essays, diaries and books, among them “Sallats,” the first cookbook for same, which proved that vegetarians could eat and live. You can read it online at http://www.gutenberg.org/files/15517/15517-h/15517-h.htm.

This book and others by Evelyn are in the Julia Appleton Cross Rare Book Collection at The Frelinghuysen Arboretum and will displayed and discussed at the July 18, 2010 program “Sallets.” The second half of the class will feature re-creation of recipes from this book by Chef Cynthia Triolo.

Begin at the British Library http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/features/evelynnotes.html where you will find an excellent introduction to the life of this influential man who was at the center of 17th century English society and learning. Look at the Roald Dahl-esque drawing of gardening tools and remember it. Go through the “Discover More” brief and informative links there.

Now, on to http://americangardenhistory.blogspot.com/2009/09/tools-john-evelyn.html. The 1648 portrait of Evelyn by Robert Walker depicts a very different Evelyn. Instead of the patrician, rational, critic, we see a romantic, symbolic and philosophical Evelyn. This is the side revealed when he was engaged in gardening. In fact, Evelyn said, “What is a gardener to be, but an absolute philosopher.” Scroll down a bit and you will see that drawing of gardening tools again. The first two readers to name all 35 tools get a nice prize. Email answers to me by July 31 and the winners will be announced online. The list of tools just below the image should help a bit.

More? http://www.gardenvisit.com, search “Evelyn” and get the gardens he visits and likes and, of infinitely more interest, the gardens he visits and doesn’t like. His wit is sweet and sharp.

See modern day images of his own garden, Sayes Court, at http://londonslostgarden.wordpress.com, search “Evelyn.” This garden is being restored and the 12 apostle’s yew tree avenue is straight and true. His designs for Groombridge, detailed like a general’s battle plans. Sayes Court boasted a holly hedge 160′ in length, 7′ high and 5′ wide. When Evelyn left Sayes Court and moved to Wooton, Sayes new owner was Peter the Great, who enjoyed wheelbarrow rides under the holly’s great limbs.

In London, they named a community garden after Evelyn at
vids.myspace. Yes, it’s worth the trip, after all this is the man considered by many to be the “Father of British Horticulture.” In the midst of burgeoning ship building, and the rise of the glass and iron industries, he had the foresight to insist that trees be planted to replace the ones felled and, not to his surprise: 1,000,000,000 trees were planted.

At www.wikipedia.org, that source of all knowledge, search John Evelyn to find other things that named after him: a rose, a bar, a gossip column, a School for Women, and Crabtree & Evelyn (who knew?)

Deeper still? See his political quick stepping at http://1911encyclopedia.org/John-Evelyn and his clever affiliations at www.spiritos-temporis.com/john-evelyn

Evelyn’s swan song, “Elysium Britannicum” is referred to as the “missing masterpiece of the literature of gardening.” Containing drawings and descriptions of every kind of garden design, ornament, and element in the world of horticulture, it was never completed nor published. The manuscript is currently housed in Christ Church, Oxford, but you can view it online at http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/13444.html.

Finally, a culinary connection to bring it all full circle: http://gherkinstomatoes.com.

Yes, “The Man Who Would Be a Locavore” even had an opinion about cheesecake.

Lesley Parness is Superintendent of Horticultural Education at The Morris County Park Commission. She can be reached at lparness@morrisparks.net.

The Rush of Citrus

It’s worth the olfactory desert of January to smell, on a sunny afternoon in February, the rush of citrus. There’s a lovely Meyer’s Lemon waiting for you at Willowwood’s conservatory.

For some closer to home, grow your own. For the real deal on growing your own, check out recommendations at www.fourwindsgrowers.com, Use their citrus variety information chart.  Rangpur Lime sounds divine (I dimly hear the clink of ice cubes…)

Master Gardeners are in the know at www.emmitsburg.net/gardens/articles/adams/2006/lemon_tree.htm.

You’ll find serious cultural advice at www.bachmans.com, search “growing citrus indoors.” Mr. P. Allen Smith has a video, naturally, and you can watch him prune a citrus tree at www.pallensmith.com, search “growing citrus in containers.”  He’s so cute when he says scale – skay-ul!  But cuter still is the Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s Scott Appell. Learn how his Bubbi Irene started his love affair with citrus at www.bbg.org, search “Manhattan Marmalade.”

I would love to teach a class on citrus and have lime, tangerine and lemon trees for sale.  If you are interested in such a class for next year, email me and we’ll make it happen.

Lesley Parness is Superintendent of Horticultural Education at The Morris County Park Commission. She can be reached at lparness@morrisparks.net.

Living Walls

A recent trip to the Geraldine R. Dodge Foundation’s new headquarters in Morristown provided the subject for this issue’s column – Living Walls. I was told that the living wall there is the second largest in the US. The sounds of water trickling down the four stories and the smell of plants certainly improve meetings!

It’s not a new idea (think: Hanging Gardens of Babylon and more on that in a future column) but French botanist/artist Patrick Blanc coined the term “living wall” or in French “mur vegetal” only a decade ago.  At www.environmentalgraffiti.com search “living walls” to see 15 walls from Mumbai to Las Vegas.   The CaixaForum in Madrid, Spain has over 15,000 plants of more than 250 species.  Whether used to grow food, clean the air, provide shade, cool the building, mitigate sick building syndrome, muffle noise, reduce stormwater runoff, clean greywater, provide privacy, create a wildlife habitat; or act as a design element,  living walls have captured the minds of urban ecologists and garden designers and the hearts of city-dwellers and garden lovers around the world. And while we are on our way to other living walls, let me interject a slight detour to www.publicfarm1.org, a fascinating project in nearby Queens, NY that does all of the above.

There are two main categories of green walls: green facades and living walls. Green façades are made up of climbing plants either growing directly on a wall or, more recently, specially designed supporting structures. The plant shoot system grows up the side of the building while being rooted to the ground. In a living wall the modular panels are often comprised of polypropylene plastic containers, geotextiles, irrigation systems, a growing medium and vegetation. The roots in these systems are airborne.

Lots of plants make good vertical growers, used in combination or singly. For a monoculture living wall, visit www.mossacres.com and search green wall technology.  What could be plusher than a mossy wall?  At www.wikihow.com/Make-a-living-wall the basic considerations are set out.  More detailed info can be found at www.buildinggreentv.com search living wall.  At www.wonderhowto.com search living wall to see a wall mounted living wall constructed. 

There are lots of companies from which to purchase living wall materials – these include www.agreenroof.comwww.livingwall.com and www.eltlivingwalls.com.

Currently, the world of living walls seems split between the seriously green building world and the more artistic application of this growing technology. Visit Swedish ecologist Folke Gunter at www.holon.se/folke/projects for cool directions on how to make a living wall from old tires and plastic bags and lots of other neat stuff. The work and philosophy of Patrick Blanc, whose stunning designs grace the Quai Branly Museum in Paris and numerous other lucky walls in France and Asia, may be seen at www.verticalgardenpatrickblanc.com

Lesley Parness is Superintendent of Horticultural Education at The Morris County Park Commission. She can be reached at lparness@morrisparks.net.

Spring 2009 – This Spring Go (Micro) Green

The smallest, quickest to harvest vegetable is also easy to grow and available in a range of colors, shapes and tastes. Micro greens rule! Try growing them this spring.

The nice folks at Sunset Magazine define the ages of greens as 4″-6″ tall- teenage, 2″-4″ tall – baby, less than 2″ tall – micro. Read about them at http://www.sunset.com/garden/fruits-veggies/easy-grow-micro-greens-00400000016081/. They recommend seeds from www.botanicalinterests.com – a very user friendly site with interesting owners.

Food critic, David Rosengarten, thinks that there are 9 stages to the life cycle of a green as he describes at http://splendidtable.publicradio.org/gourmetguide/tuesday/rosengarten/020903_greens. Perhaps he was a rabbit in a former life.

You need macro green to buy micro greens at http://www.thenibble.com/zine/archives/mr-mcgregors-microgreens.asp#serving, so grow them yourself.

Simple straight forward growing directions can be found at http://www.gardenheights.com/growing_greens.html

Trend setting foodies take note at http://www.projo.com/garden/content/lh_kitchencrops_04-13-08_JH9BCDU_v9.1bc9b11.html

More culinary advice can be found at http://www.ifood.tv/blog/micro_greens. They like http://chefsgreens.com/green_cuisine_products.htm for seeds. Garnet Amaranth and Bulls Blood Beets are just so cool looking.

Check out 3 great recipes at:

Other seed sources include:

2009 is the Year of The Greens at the National Garden Bureau. Although small in stature, micros, babies and teenagers are part of the “Greens” family. Enjoy the “greenealogy” at http://www.ngb.org/gardening/fact_sheets/fact_details.cfm?factID=26

– Lesley Parness

Lesley Parness is Superintendent of Horticultural Education at The Morris County Park Commission. She can be reached at lparness@morrisparks.net.